On Wed, 09 Nov 2005 08:16:33 -0700, 123 <123_at_456.789> put finger to keyboard and composed: Is it possible to build an inexpensive UV EPROM ERASER out of those Standard DIP packages cannot be erased with a … Learn how your comment data is processed. 1 Connect the eraser to the domestic mains supply. Just leave them in the sun a couple days and they will be erased. I’m pretty sure I remember seeing a few plastic encased ones with a window back in the day, but yes ceramic was much more popular. The compact desktop DE-4 accommodate up to eight EPROMs and uses a 4-watt shortwave tube with a typical erasure time of 8,3 minutes. If it were digital, we would only have an empty room or a room … 0000004266 00000 n Blue LED’s were never commercially available during the 1980’s, much les the 1970’s. This product is designed to erase programmable IC's such as EPROM's and micro-controllers, which can be erased, when exposed to high intensity UV light. Depends on the tube. By using our website and services, you expressly agree to the placement of our performance, functionality and advertising cookies. These erasers contained one or more UV tubes and a timer. For a more traditional solution, I got an eraser for about $15 at https://www.aliexpress.com/af/eprom-eraser.html. There are at least three different kinds of UV bulbs, Black Light, Tanning, and Germicidal. Then I tried leaving them under the UV lights for a whole week. This almost burnt down the house, and after a second round of erasing of six hours under the lamp, there were still unerased bits. 6. kieranc has updated the project titled Crypto Ticker. 0000250921 00000 n The whole data is deleted. you might want to try the sun lol.. about 3-4 weeks.. no seriously though about 20 mins in a cheapo china eraser.. my production eprom eraser takes about 10 min.. really nukes it. The EPROM pack is pushed right into the eraser to turn on the light and erase the pack. The thing is, that UV-C has no chance of going through the plastic housing of the LED, so it probably erases with longer wavelengths as well, just not as fast…. I’d say that this qualifies as a Fail Of The Week since things didn’t work as planned but turned out to be educational in the process. W,8.500 IN. Blue LEDs were around as early as 1972. The ones that the eproms wre designed for are the 253.7nm mercury line emmitting tubes (long end of UV-C), which are quartz and have no phosphor. Leave them outside in the sun for a couple days and they will be erased as well. So I left them in overnight. The C-91 has capacity for 96 EPROMs and features a grid lamp, tube viewports and cumulative hour meter. To erase an EPROM chip it must have a glass window. \o/. No, UV-C is the shortest wavelength and the highest energy. 0000004444 00000 n Using a struct object allows you to group variables together and use the EEPROM.put() and get() to access the EEPROM. Blue LEDs came out in 1993. yR�|P�'y �� +�U��|�㫔�]�/x�_xN�8(� You could order an appropriate light source and have it shipped to you much faster. All you really need to do is shine a LED onto a chip for a few hours. Or focusing Sun on the chip’s window while trying not to melt it. Having an instrument of the same model it was easy with a bay sourced programmer and new chips to copy and finish repair. An EPROM cell is really an analog device. The EPROM needs UV light to erase the data. H. Good condition, some marks (please see photos) Lamp also in good working order. Sorting. 0000002740 00000 n Why not just leave the EPROM out in the direct sunlight for a couple of days? It eventually worked, allowing [Charles]’ project, a vintage liquid crystal display, to have the right data using vintage-correct parts. Your mileage may vary but it worked for me when all my attempts with uv lamps etc failed. It was common practice to erase an old version of MWBASIC to a later one hence the scarcity of early version of MWBASIC. x�bb�``b``. EPROM includes a rock crystal crystal window at the top. 64 32 LG,3.375 IN. And by sunny they mean that you can guess approximate sun position through the clouds. UV-EPROMS can only be erased by exposure to UV light so EPROM erasers were manufactured for this purpose. endstream endobj 94 0 obj <>/Size 64/Type/XRef>>stream 0000052082 00000 n So only a fraction of the power went to the UV tube. Fortunately, old electronics are highly resistant to abuse, so he pulled out the obvious equipment to erase this chip, a 300 watt tanning lamp. While there weren’t UV LEDs in the 70s but there were blue-violet ones and the jump to UV isn’t exactly mind-blowing despite how long it took. Probably older UV LEDs. According to the datsheet of the EEPROM, the wavelength should be under 4000Å (400nm), which it was for both types of Leds. 0000003934 00000 n Shorter = more energy, which should mean more effective curing. :) LOL! Using other hardware, the data could be backed up to PC before erasing. The vast majority of them are ceramic but there are resin cased eproms with windows. Yes; the LED had the right frequency to flip a bit, and erasing an EPROM is a function of intensity and time. Do you have a source for a ‘blue-violet’ led in the ’70s. Hi, I tried the same experiment back when blue LEDs (and the incidental UV emission when pulsed) became available. The static power consumption of EPROM is quite high. Repeat steps 1, 2 and 3 until the device reads blank. I recall an article in the mid-70s about rejuvenating eproms. Driving it with a bay sourced programmer and new chips to copy and finish repair (... 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